Sunday, April 21, 2013

21/04/2013


SUNSUNSUNSUNSUN
(I am so sunburnt)
(( I actually kind of forgot this blog existed for a few weeks. Whoops.))
It’s baaaaaack. The sun has reappeared with a vengeance and is currently engaged in a fierce battle with the entire population of Spanish señoras who are determined to continue wearing their fur coats until June 1st. With the sun came the beginning of a constant stream of tour buses. The good people of Granada are in general pretty laid back about the ridiculous amount of photo snapping and fanny-pack wearing foreigners invading their town, partially because they really just don’t get riled up about anything unless it involves futbol, and partially because it allows them to participate in their second favorite pastime: gossiping about tourists. Being rather taller and blonder and less fashionable than the average Spaniard, people often play the “Guess Where That Girl’s From” game, assuming I can’t understand them.
Listening to people debate my ethnicity is a bit like being the horse on the auction block.
“!Mira! Inglaterra?
Pues no! Look at her hair! German”
Anda ya. . . Did you remember to buy olive oil? So pale. . . she could be a Russian.”
Rusa? Que va, hombre. . . not skinny enough. She’s definitely German. And yes, I bought 26 litres, do you think we need more? Federico invited me to his communion next weekend in Sevilla.”
“In Sevilla! Madre mia, que cajones. . . Look how tall, maybe American? And only 26? What are you thinking? I’ll go by 39 more at Mercadona ASAP, vale? ‘Sta luego
Ciao!”
On a bus from Madrid this past week it suddenly hit me that I could now actually understand the gossiping of the people sitting around me. This was a double scoop of delightfulness as it served as a tangible piece of evidence that I was actually improving with my Spanish (much needed after the past few weeks of playing Subjunctive-Tense-Russian-Roulette in my homework) and also because I have always enjoyed listening to random snippets of peoples’ lives. Understanding is a small step, nothing more, yet its rewards are intoxicating and deceptive. It gives me a dangerous amount of confidence in my Spanish abilities, which leads to me attempting to corral innocent Shwarma sellers and men who ask me to dance at my favorite salsa club into long, involved conversations, as well as attempting to explain the concept of Reeses Peanut Butter Cups to my host mom, who thinks I’m about as nutso as they come, but still nodded and smiled politely.
1 month left!! And so much gelato to eat, places to see, and bachata learn before I return to the real world. Until then, here are 5 cool pictures of the approximately 78,930 on my iPhoto that have never been uploaded.
1. Andalusia is kinda pretty

2. San Sebastian is also rather attractive

3. And so is Sevilla's Plaza de España

4. And their river/sunsets

5. Don Quijote's windmills are pretty swell as well! 

Thursday, April 4, 2013

Semana Santa

 SPAIN IS SO COOL.
Yeah. . . . that basically sums up how I feel about Semana Santa.
Andalusia gets really into Holy Week processions, and I can't even handle how awesome they are. 
Some cool facts: (courtesy of a variety of sources including my host family, teacher, and some random people on the street during the processions)
1. Each of the processions costs around 25-30 THOUSAND euros to put on (paid for by the individual brotherhoods and the local government)
2. One of the hottest gossip topics in Granada during Semana Santa is what the Virgin Mary was wearing during the processions (They dress the idol with blankets and jewelry and veils)
3. It's really disturbing to meet a group of penitentes (the ones with the pointy hat) on the street at 3 am (personal experience)
4. Semana Santa is unofficially sponsored by baked potatoes and sunflower seeds, everyone is eating them constantly all week. YUM.
5. Each float can weigh up to 7000 pounds, and the processions last around 7 hours each.

The music is fabulous. It depends on the  procession (there are 20+ every year), but there are normally at least two bands in each procession. Some (like Silencio on Maundy Thursday) only have drum beats.  Others (like Cristo de los Gitanos (Christ of the Gypsies) ) have flamenco singers called Saetas who stand on the balconies and sing, others have the classic marches of Semana Santa.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0mPc6lSn14A. This is the procession I saw on Saturday (Easter Sunday was rained out sadly). It's very long. . .but if you skip around you can kinda get a feel for it. 

The float of the Virgin Mary is always covered in candles, and the people in the streets go nuts when she passes by. Wailing, crying, and cheering. The float is so heavy that the people carrying it stop every 100 feet or so and set her down and trade out. When they come out from under the float you can see the GIANT welts on their backs and necks from carrying her. All of the floats are accompanied by enough incense to choke a horse.  (photo courtesy of a photographically talented friend, because my camera could not capture the awesomeness)

Los Penitentes. There are hundreds of them, in all different colors according to the day of the week and their individual brotherhood. Look a little bit uncomfortably familiar to history class? The capirote (pointy hat) was adopted by the KKK. Apparently the first couple times they see them, spanish children are terrified. I can see why. . .

Santa Maria de la Alhambra/ Nuestra Senora de las Angustias (Our Lady of Anguish). For Holy Saturday, the Virgin holding Christ's body. This is the procession I attended. I was close enough to touch the float as it passed. WOWOWOWOW . It was something else.  

The mourners, in their traditionally black dresses and mantillas. These ladies accompany the Virgin for 7 hours in heels carrying rosaries and candles. (again, not my photo)

More colors of Penitentes. In the smaller pueblos many still practice self- flagellation, lashing their backs as they walk and/or giving themselves the stigmata. In Granada, since it is such a tourist attraction, the most they are allowed to do is walk on their knees (OW) or barefoot through the streets.  On Thursday they all wear shackles for Silencio. I am really sad I wasn't in town to see Silencio. They turn off every streetlight/business sign/light in the city and carry the idols through the dark to the sound of a solo drum beat. the only sound is the sound of the chains of the penitentes on the cobblestones and the drumbeat and people crying. My friend stayed in Granada all week and she told me that it was one of the eeriest experiences of her life and that there was not a dry eye in Granada.



I SPRINTED through town and up the hill to the Alhambra at 1:30 am to see the end of this procession. Worth the out of breath, sweaty spectacle I'm sure I was. I wish I had video (my camera has no microphone). The people were crying and the whole crowd sang to the idol as she was blessed and made her way the last 100 feet back into her home in the church (Santa Maria de la Alhambra). The Alhambra is illuminated at night and this night the bells of the churches rang the entire time to honor her. It was incredibly moving. 


One of the many bands (nope, not mine either- way too good of photography)

One of the Christ floats. 

The kids all have balls of wax they collect and add to from the candles of the procession participants as they go by.