Sunday, February 10, 2013

10/01/2013


La Alhambra! 
And music for background, the song "Granada" of course (what else?)




Granada

Granada, tierra sonada por mi,
mi cantar se vuelve gitano
cuando es para ti.
Mi cantar, hecho de fantasia;
mi cantar, flor de melancolia,
que yo te vengo a dar.
Granada, tierra ensangrentada
en tardes de toros,
mujer que conserva el embrujo
de los ojos moros.
De sueno, rebelde, gitana
cubierta de flores,
y beso tu boca de grana,
jugosa manzana
que me habla de amores.
Granada, manola, cantada
en coplas preciosas,
no tengo otra cosa que darte
que un ramo de rosas,
de rosas de suave fragrancia
que le dieran marco a la Virgen morena.
Granada, tu tierra esta llena
de lindas mujeres, de sangre y de sol.
Translation into English

Granada, land of my dreams,
mine becomes a gypsy song
when I sing to you.
My song, born of fancy;
my song, melancholy flower,
that I've come to offer you.
Granada, land covered in blood
from the bullfighting afternoons,
woman who retains the spell
of Moorish eyes.
A dream-land, a rebel, a gypsy,
covered with flowers,
and I kiss your scarlet mouth,
juicy apple
that tells me about love affairs.
Granada, my beautiful, sung
in precious coplas,
I have nothing else to give you
but a bouquet of roses
worthy of adorning the brown-skinned Virgin.
Granada, your soil is full
of beautiful woman, blood and sunshine.



Las banderas! The European Union, Andalusia, Spain, and the city of Granada
This is my school. It's called La Huerta de Los Angeles, so sometimes I tell people I go to school in L.A. haha
Postcards! First round!! Finally! Woo hoo!! (If you want one, send me your address and I'll gladly oblige)

The view looking down from the tower of the Alhambra on one of the other towers and on what remains of the walls of some of the original buildings. The outside wall around it goes around the entire "city" for soldiers to patrol.


The ceilings are INCREDIBLE. The art style is called "Mocarabe" or  "Honeycomb". Originally it would have all been painted with many different colors, all that remains of the original are some of the blues, but I can imagine it was quite the sight

These people knew how to decorate


The intricacy of the carvings is mind-blowing. . .   all made of crushed plaster mixed with water and poured into molds

Las Palacias Nazaris- So: The Alhambra is a city in itself- "Alhambra" translates to "Red" from Arabic, so  it was known as the Red City, so called because the first Muslim ruler had red hair. It is situated at the highest point in the city (for strategic reasons), and pretty massive. The palaces look pretty impressive on the outside, but the inside. . . .oh man. . . . they believed that just as beauty in a person should come from within, so too should the wealth and beauty of the palaces be displayed inside instead of outside. . . and WOW did they ever display some wealth.

La Generalife. Every time I see this word I want to make it General Life, but it's Generalife, which is Arabic for the Gardens of Paradise. Islam originated in the desert, so naturally their paradise is a garden full of flowers, fountains and fruits. It's a little early for the flowers, but the gardens are gorgeous and green and in a month or two will be filled with roses and other flowers.

The Palace of the Generalife. More fountains and gardens and all around awesomeness

The theater. added in the 1950s for public concerts and music festivals in the summer. Supposedly in July and August there are some pretty spectacular flamenco shows up here

The capitals of all the columns, displaying some beautiful script and designs.

The palaces again. Much of the Alhambra is the original Nasarid (the last dynasty of the Muslim rulers) palaces, but some of it was added by Carlos V after the Reconquista of Granada

Oh no. . . I've already forgotten the name of this building. . .. did I mention the Alhambra is kinda big?


Puerta de Vino! So named after the Reconquista (Islam forbids alcohol), because it was the door they would use to transport goods, including wine, in to the palaces

The ruins of one of the palaces. Napoleon and his Little Man Complex destroyed parts of the Alhambra, along with time (1000 year anniversary this year!). Many of the original houses of artisans and nobles who lived within the city were destroyed, but luckily most of the palaces etc remained intact.

Almond trees and Orange trees abound in Spain. The oranges are all in season, and the almonds are just starting to bloom:) Spring is upon us!

Legend says that one of the Muslim kings married a princess from Northern Europe and when he brought her to Granada she was homesick for the snow. So he planted thousands of Almond trees all over the hillside of the Alhambra so that the hill would be white in the spring and look like snow. 

Mosaics!


Inside the flower is the Arabic word for "blessing". It's on every doorway and archway in the Alhambra to bless those who enter

The mirror of the Alhambra.


Plaza of the Lions

So much sun. . .

The ceiling of the Salon of the Kings, all made out of wood and carved with stars to resemble the night sky and the seven levels of paradise

This phrase in Arabic means "God (Allah) is the only true victor". When Mohammed I (the first Nasarid king) returned to Granada after his great victory in battle, the people greeted him in the streets with cries of "Mohammed our victor/champion!" to which Mohammed responded "God is the only true victor." It became the family motto and is carved literally thousands of times in the Alhambra


The ceiling of one of the private residences of the king and his lady friends (Islam permits up to 4 wives. Whichever one has a son first is the principal wife and was given the title of Queen)

more mosaics


Granada, from the tower

The Palace of Carlos V. Carlos had some serious power, as the grandson of  Los Reyes Catolicos (Ferdinand and Isabel) and The Hapsburgs of the Austrian/German empire he inherited most of Europe and was given the title of Holy Roman Emperor. He wanted to make Granada the capital of Spain, and so built a palace here in the Alhambra. the patio inside is designed to look like the Roman Pantheon.




So rumor (from one of our host moms) is that there is an underground palace at the Alhambra that no one is allowed to visit. . .  maybe that's where this random staircase in the ground was headed for (There was a big locked door at the bottom ha)

Yeah, I'm pretty excellent at smiling for pictures

The Sierra Nevadas!

More gardens, and Granada


The Mirador de San Nicolas in the Albayzin. When we visited there  a few weeks ago I took a picture of people taking a picture of us from the Alhambra, sooo now I have the opposite way as well haha!

Monday, February 4, 2013

Post Intensivo Break




I survived a month of Intensivo! And have officially been in Spain for a month! For our long weekend before the semester officially starts, a group of girls from my program and I travelled to Morocco in search of adventure. 
---On a side note, on the bus ride there and back I read Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry into Values, by Robert M. Pirsig. If you're at all into philosophy or just looking for a thought provoking read, check it out. "The only Zen you find on the tops of mountains is the Zen you bring up there".



Our tickets for the boat out of Spain were at 5 and we were 2 hours early, so we stopped at Marbella- a glitzy resort town for an hour of hanging out on the beach. It was like a Hollywood scene. So many yachts, so many ridiculously wealthy people.
"I'm like the rock of Gibraltar, I always seem to falter. . ." I had this song stuck in my head the entire ferry ride over from Tarifa (20 points if you know what it is). We actually did drive past Gibraltar, but we were closer to the Atlantic than the rock when we crossed the strait.
First view of Tangiers at the port.                                

Dinner at our hotel. These ladies are all from University of Portland, and were a great group to travel with:)

Cous-Cous. yummmmm


Salad .. . or about a quarter of the original plate full of rice, corn, beets, carrots, cabbage, tomatoes, onion, and potatoes (all cold). 
I didn't want to know the final purpose of these turtles. I did want to take them all back to Spain and keep them in our bathtub though.







Beautiful lake at a restaurant/convenience store we stopped at. Morocco was so green and mountainous, and it rained the first day.

The guy kept calling this "Moroccan Whiskey" and then giggling to himself ha,  it was actually mint tea with lots of sugar and basil and deliciousness. 

Chefchaouen- the Blue City. Our tour guide told me it was to keep away the mosquitoes (he also told me he didn't know what kind of government Morocco had when I asked him though so. . . . . maybe less "tour guide" and more "student herder"?), Google tells me that it's a tradition inherited from the large population of Jewish refugees that populated the city. In the Bible, Israelites are commanded to dye one of the threads in their tallit (prayer shawl) blue with a dye made from shellfish. In honor of this commandment, the Jews wove blue into their cloth and washed their houses with blue pigment to remind them of the sky and of God above in Heaven.. The tradition lost its religious associations and now is just a touristy tradition. True? Who knows, but I'm a fan.




Surprise, more doors. I may have to rename this blog to "Pictures of Doors and Windows in Europe". There's a really good psychoanalysis just waiting to happen from my fascination with them.



Our group :)





Surrounded by mountains. .. 


A door to nowhere:)




Cemetery on the hill, all facing Mecca. 

I love henna. I bought a good amount, so I will definitely be practicing up my skills. The arabic script says "Chaouen". 


Pigments. So many colors, so bright and vibrant. . .it was so tempting to buy a giant bag and paint our house with it. . .  you wouldn't mind, right mom and dad?

I really just like blue. 

Tapestries and rugs and blankets filled the markets. . . I wanted them all. . . . . bargaining is not my strong suit though, and I somehow don't see one of those fitting in my suitcase easily.

The pottery killed me too. If I didn't know for a fact that I would break it, I would have bought an entire stall's worth. If there's one thing I adore about Spain/Morocco it's their use of colors. 
"Just ignore the local kids. They'll just try to sell you stuff". Well.  .. . yeah, but they'll also take you on a wild tour around the city streets while jabbering away in french/arabic/spanish and a bit of english. They taught me how to count to ten in arabic and showed me all their favorite stores. They were great fun. And yes, I bought their bracelets ha. 

Coziest cat in Morocco.

The second day we went to Asilah, the opposite direction from Tangiers. After our bus got hit by a rickshaw and the Moroccan police held us up for an hour filling out paperwork. . . . they also pulled 9 kids out of the bottom compartment of our bus, they were trying to hitch a ride to Spain. . . . I rode camels and had the time of my life, and these kids just wanted a chance to have a life. . . definitely some food for introspection and reflection.

on a happier note, I RODE A CAMEL :) It was everything I remembered from the circus as a kid and more :D

Baby camel. Awww:) 

We stopped at the Caves of Hercules, where Hercules took a nice little break after completing his 12 labors. 

In Asilah, so much blue!! My favorite shades (obviously)


Art in the market. . .  ahhh that blue. . . .
Last look back at Tangier from the ferry back to Tarifa. I felt incredibly sheltered during this trip as we stayed in very modern hotels and drove around in a massive bus, but Morocco is clearly still a developing country and some of the scenes out the window really made me feel a bit ashamed to be gallavanting around with camera snapping photos and skipping around Morocco while the people were struggling for essentials. If I ever get the privilege to go back, it will NOT be with a tour designed for students like the one I did. Some of things I heard from the kids on the bus, and the entire set up of whizzing into a country like Morocco and dropping a bunch of cash buying kitschy souvenirs and oohing and aahhing at people just going about their daily lives, treating an entire culture like some sort of zoo exhibit to be photographed and looked down on and then left and forgotten about in order to return to our privileged lives in Spain. .  . well. . . it made me a bit queasy and more than a little ashamed to be a part of it. But I would LOVE to return in some other fashion- Morocco is gorgeous and has a fascinating culture that I feel like I barely got a glimpse of. Overall, a great weekend and a huge eye opener.